With Original Thai, entreprenurial chef makes return to Laconia

LACONIA — Tony Phaophayak has opened several Thai restaurants across New Hampshire over the past two decades. With retirement just over the horizon, he decided to open one more, in Laconia, the city where he started his first restaurant in 2007.

Tony's swan song is “Original Thai,” a take-out-only restaurant located at 821 N. Main St., across from the fire station and between The Wellness Complex and Taxiarchai Greek Orthodox Church. Phaophayak’s goal is to establish the business and then hand it off to his daughter, Eve Phaophayak, and grandson, Oak Phaophayak.

“I plan to retire soon,” Tony said. “I set up [Original Thai] for my kids.”

Tony’s story begins in Bangkok, Thailand, where he grew up and said he could find work, but not adequate pay. That’s why, in 1988, he immigrated to the United States, first settling in California.

For nearly 20 years, Tony worked in kitchens of Asian-American restaurants across the country, honing his skills in Thai food and also learning the nuances of sushi along the way. In 2007, he put those skills to work for himself, opening his own restaurant, Sala Thai, on Union Avenue.

A year later, Tony sold Sala Thai — the new owners renamed it Lanna Thai, but kept using his recipes until a later change of ownership — and he relocated to Plymouth, where he opened Thai Smile. Since then, Tony has opened Thai restaurants in Durham, off Interstate 93 exits 20 and 32, and in Berlin. He’s now sold all of those, and is focusing on Original Thai.

Tony said he decided to give his seventh restaurant its name as a nod to the authenticity of his recipes, which he said are 95% identical to the food he grew up with.

“I use a lot of herb, like traditional Thai: Lemongrass, galangal, Thai basil, Thai chili. I use almost 100% Thai, when you come to my restaurant, you get very close food to Bangkok,” Tony said. “Most Thai restaurants around here, they adjust it to make it close to American.”

One thing Tony is willing to adjust to match local palates is the heat level of dishes typically served with lots of Thai chili oil. The starting spiciness of dishes marked on the menu with a red pepper is fairly mild, but more adventurous customers can ask for extra capsaicin. Be judicious, though; an “extra spicy” version of a dish will have 10 times the amount of hot pepper oil than the standard preparation.

“If you ask for hot, it’s gonna be hot,” Tony said. “Thai chili is really hot.”

Tony said he wanted his final restaurant to be in Laconia because he had fond memories of the community after opening his first business here. He likes the proximity to water, and sees lots of potential customers who either work or live nearby. The location on North Main allows for his family to live near to the restaurant, as well as to Opechee Park and Lake Opechee.

One aspect of Original Thai’s location is the building, which previously housed North Country Pizza, doesn’t have sprinklers. The Phaophayaks would have to make a substantial investment in order to put in a fire suppression system, which is why they don’t have a dining room.

Original Thai opened on June 28 and business has been “very good, unexpected,” Tony said.

With Tony interpreting, Eve said she’s eager to carry on her father’s legacy.

“She wants customers to know, it’s going to be real Thai food, in the town of Laconia,” Tony said.

Then, speaking again for himself, Tony said, “I would like to do the best I can over here to serve food for the people in Laconia.”