Lakes Region Foodie — Brown Irish Soda Bread

The climate of Ireland isn’t suitable to grow the high protein flours used in most yeast breads, which is one of the reasons soda bread is their everyday bread. The lower protein all-purpose flour is perfect for soda bread. I use wheat bran for added flavor and texture.

Unlike yeast breads, you never want to over-handle or knead soda breads. Work quickly and gently for the best results and never use a mixer to prepare the dough. The cross cut is known as the blessing and the 4 smilers cuts are to let the fairies out so they don’t cause mischief and to ensure good luck. Actually, these cuts and the cross cuts allow the heat to reach the center of the dough for even baking.

Soda breads are easy to make and allow you to have fresh, wonderfully textured and flavorful rustic breads with little effort. It makes great toast and croutons. However, like true French baguettes, soda breads only last a few days.

For a few great variations try adding olives, sun-dried tomatoes or dried apricots to the recipe, besides the more common raisins or currants. The bread bakes well in a 9-inch or larger cast iron skillet.

Brown Irish Soda Bread

1½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1½ cups whole-wheat flour

1 cup wheat bran

1/2 teaspoon salt

1½ teaspoons baking soda

2 1/4 cups cultured buttermilk

Adjust oven rack to the second level from the bottom and preheat to 450˚F. Lightly flour the center of a baking sheet, set aside until needed.

In a wide medium-large mixing bowl, add the all-purpose and whole-wheat flours, bran and salt. Sift the baking soda and add to the bowl with the other dry ingredients. Using a circular motion, gently rub together the dry ingredients between your hands until they evenly blended. It’s important to distribute the baking soda so you don’t end up with those mysterious brown spots.

Make a well in the center of the flour mixture. Add the buttermilk. Using a large, wide number spatula or wooden spoon, gently stir the flour from the edge to the buttermilk until just combined. The mixture will be sticky and seem under-mixed compared to a yeast dough. Scape down the sides of the bowl.

Turn out the dough onto the lightly floured counter. Keep your hands dusted with flour as you quickly shape the dough into a round pad about 8 inch wide.

Using a sharp, thin-bladed knife, carefully cut a cross in the top of the loaf, cutting about 1/2 inch deep. Us the knife to open these cuts. Then make a small cut in the top center of each the 4 quarters marked by the cross cuts.

Place the flour dusted baking pan on the counter next to the dough. Lift the dough with your hands onto the center of the dusted pan. Immediately place on the adjust oven rack and bake for about 30 minutes, or until brown and the bread sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. After the first 15 minutes of baking, rotate the pan from back to front for even baking and coloring. If the bottom seems prematurely dark, then reduce the oven temperate 25 degrees.

Transfer the loaf to a rack and let cool for one hour or more before slicing. Store wrapped or in an airtight container.