There are hundreds of choices when it comes to club shafts. Which one will you choose? Many of us just go with what came from the manufacturer. It may not be just exactly what you can play best with. As a clubmaker I am partial to just a few brands because of consistency and quality.

In reviewing the latest and greatest shafts from various suppliers, prices range as high as $500 per shaft. How could that be? In my opinion, no shaft is worth that kind of money. Perhaps it is made from a hybrid form of graphite. But if you spend 10 times more money for this shaft, will it perform ten times better with distance and accuracy? I do not think so. I know for a fact there are some really good shafts for $50 or less.

How do shafts work? If you were able to view a shaft in full swing motion, something interesting happens. At about half way down in the swing the shaft will go from oval to somewhat flat. Distance comes when the shaft recovers right at impact. If it does not recover, everything from distance to flight pattern to direction suffers. That's when you regret buying that $400 driver. But because you spent that much, you are going to be loyal to it. You will even say it is you, the player, and not the driver. So what is the solution? Changing shafts is now an option. But what is the correct one? A good club fitter is mandatory.

You might even send the club back to the manufacturer. But first see a club fitter about to what shaft to ask for. Of course, the company is going to charge for shaft removal and installation. A new grip and shipping are all going to cost you.

There are a number of things a shaft does. Flex, flex point and weight are all part of how the shaft will perform. Then there is the manufacturing process. Most shafts are layered with high modulus strains of graphite. The shaft will sit and cure for a period of time. It then goes through a lathe to make it into the desired form. Then the paint and graphics are taken care of. The other type of process is filament wound. The filament looks like fishing line and is wound around a mandrel. It then goes through the same painting and graphics as does the layered shaft.

One word of caution. Just because it costs quite a bit of money does not make it right for you. Please see your pro or club fitter for best advice.

If you have questions or comments please write to me at my email address which is Dcharn1@sbcglobal.net. 

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