Tavern 27 owners finding success with tapas way of life

LACONIA — Ray Simanson and Leslie Judice were strangers to the Lakes Region when they re-opened last year the small inn and par 3 golf course at 2075 Parade Road and added a small store selling gifts and custom jewelry. This year, they followed those efforts with the addition of Tavern 27, a restaurant and bar that has made a name for itself by offering a dining experience unique to the Lakes Region. Their restaurant features "tapas" style dining, which originated in Spain but which they've reinterpreted using flavors which should be familiar to patrons, although the presentation is unusual.

According to a legend told by Simanson, tapas cuisine was originated centuries ago when King Alfonzo the Wize of the Castille region of Spain ordered a glass of sherry after recovering from an illness thought to be caused by an insect. To prevent flies from landing in the sweet beverage, his server placed a slice of cured ham over the glass, an innovation that the king thought should be spread throughout his land. "Tapas" is thought to be related to the Spanish verb "tapar," which means "to cover." Tavern keepers realized that the savory food would inspire more beverage orders, so the custom held and developed to the point where tapas now refers to a style of dining where food is presented as bite-sized pieces served on a small plate and intended to be shared by everyone at the table.

According to Simanson and Judice, tapas dining allows patrons to sample several dishes without over-eating. A surprising but consistent side effect is that the dining experience is more socially active, they say, as each plate of food, brought in a flow of one after another, becomes a new topic of conversation.

"The pace of the food allows people to slow down, enjoy the company that you're with," said Judice.

Tapas restaurants are now found in cities around the world. Could the concept work in Laconia? Simanson admitted they were ready to develop a backup plan if it failed, but he's happy to say that their risky concept has paid off.

"It was an incredible summer," said Simanson.

Although the dining concept they've adopted is Spanish in origin, most dishes on the menu should appeal to a local palate. For example, the menu includes French-fried potatoes, a Scotch egg and crab cakes. Some of the ingredients, such as fried haddock or roasted squash and root vegetables, were specifically selected to pay tribute to the foods that have fed New Englanders for generations. And one of the items on the menu is an homage to the history of the building that houses the restaurant.

"This place still has a reputation for a great prime rib," Simanson said, referring to the previous restaurant that was located there. The building is nearly 230 years old and has been utilized as a restaurant or tavern many times throughout its history. In a nod to that past, Tavern 27 offers offers steak roulade, a tapas version of a prime rib dinner. It consists of a thin slice of sirloin wrapped around mashed potatoes and served with a balsamic vinegar reduction. The presentation might be unusual but the flavor combination is right in most patrons' comfort zone.

Tapas items take up about half of Tavern 27's menu and constitute even more of its business. Judice said nearly every party will order at least one Tapas item. Still, although they want to be known as a tapas place, they're no one-trick tavern.

Those who prefer a more conventional dinner can order salad, soup and one of three entrees. The tavern owners are also proud of their pizzas, which are made on homemade sourdough crust.

There are a few other details which continue to set Tavern 27 apart. Chef Glenn Crawford also owns Maggie Mae Farm in Belmont and he and the business's owners believe in using ingredients that are as fresh and local as possible. Scraps from the kitchen are brought back to feed to pigs, who eventually will find themselves on the menu.

Also on the menu are many gluten-free items. Simanson's mother is sensitive to wheat and trying to take her out for dinner proved an education for him as to how pervasive wheat is in restaurants.

"We challenged our chefs to come up with a fry coating that is gluten-free so that no wheat ever touches our fry oil," Judice said. All of their fried items utilize the gluten-free coating. Don't ask what's in it, that's a closely-held secret.

"But it's not on the menu because it's gluten-free, it's on the menu because it tastes good," added Simanson.

Although they came as strangers, Simanson and Judice said they've been "shocked" by the warmth and generosity of their neighbors and patrons, whom they credit, along with their staff, in making their first two years of business more successful than they could have hoped for.

As they've relied almost exclusively on word-of-mouth advertising, they owe their patrons a hearty thank-you as well.

Tavern 27 will remain open through the winter and will offer a menu created specifically for the season. Judice welcomed the uninitiated to stop by and try the tapas experience. "Gather some friends, order a bunch of food and share it," she said.

CAPTION for TAVERN 27 in AA:

Tavern 27, on Parade Road in Laconia, has found that the Lakes Region clientele is eager to embrace the "tapas" style of dining. Owners Ray Simanson and Leslie Judice are shown here with chef Glenn Crawford. Plated before them are two of their tapas dishes: Duck Confit Rolls and their signature Cloud 9 Shrimp. (Laconia Daily Sun photo/Adam Drapcho)