Former kitchen manager is new owner of Union Diner

LACONIA — Daniel McCarthy has lived in the Lakes Region for nearly 40 years, and has long been a big part of the local food scene. His newest endeavor is the purchase of the Union Diner, a spot where he not only worked, but has also been a highly satisfied customer.

“This was our favorite diner in the Lakes Region before I started working here,” said McCarthy, sitting alongside his wife, Lynda, who will work as an office assistant.

McCarthy became the owner of Union Diner on Jan. 1, after purchasing it from Rose Pucci and Delores Hildreth, who he said have been incredible through the transition. Fortunately, McCarthy knows his way around the kitchen — literally — as he was kitchen manager for the past two years.

“Everything is pretty much staying the same for the time being, except for a couple minor changes and tweaks here and there,” McCarthy said. “We have a good thing going and a very loyal customer base.”

It has only been about a month since he took over, but McCarthy said it has been a great start. He said he took over during the slow time of year, after the holidays, when people are watching their budgets.

The good thing about a diner is it has regular customers who  come in weekly, sometimes daily.

“All the customers I’ve talked to have been absolutely thrilled and delighted with how things are going to keep going,” he said. “We have a huge crew of regulars here, lots of people who love coming here, and I’m just trying to keep that going. One of the best parts of these past few weeks is that I get to meet these people, and they’re not just an order on a ticket.”

The dining car has a feeling of nostalgia. There are booths along the front wall, with windows looking out at Union Avenue, then a counter where people can sit and enjoy their meal on stools. Boards above the bar advertise items like all-you-can-eat fried haddock, or a bloody mary — a staple of a good diner.

The connected dining room walls are lined with concert posters for bands like The Doors and The Grateful Dead, and framed records of classic rock heroes. Some will stay, but others will be returned to the previous owners, as they retain sentimental value. The McCarthys will add their own flair.

They both said the vibe of a diner is something they love, and have been drawn to.

“I love diners,” Lynda said. “I’ve always loved them. Whenever I see them, I’m like, 'Oh let’s go eat there.'”

Diners are known for a homey feel, complete with a menu full of breakfast items and comfort food. The Union Diner has it all, and Daniel said customers are always raving about the food.

“People like their eggs a certain way, their meats and potatoes a certain way,” Daniel said. “They know what they like, and really, there’s not a whole lot I need to do to change anything. We have good staff, good customers, and good food. Can’t ask for much more.”

McCarthy has had a love of food and the restaurant business since he was a teenager, starting at the Huot Career and Technical Center in Laconia, before continuing his education at Johnson & Wales University in Providence. He then worked his way up through a couple of local restaurants, Abondante in Meredith, and Nadia’s in Gilford, where he was anything from a dishwasher to a sous chef.

“Technically, I wasn’t born here, but I’ve been a resident of New Hampshire since ’87,” Daniel said. “So, granite is in my blood, even if I had to grind it in there myself.”

After college he moved to Burlington, where he learned the ways of the farm-to-table industry. He moved to Manchester in 2009 for a brief time, before moving back to Laconia, where he helped open The Local Eatery, and stayed until its sale in 2023, when he was one of two head chefs.

This type of experience bodes well for Daniel, who said he will be involved in all aspects of the business.

“I am going to be wherever I need to be on any given day,” he said. “Someday I might hop on the line, some days I’ll be working on specials, other days I’ll be helping the waitstaff out front, and some days I will have to take tables. I’ll be everywhere that I need to be, and doing everything that I need to do.”

Lynda said this is a big change of speed from his past jobs where he worked crazy hours, and at times, 16 hours a day. This gives him a chance to spend more time with his 8-year-old daughter Rachel.

Family means a lot to the McCarthys, and Daniel said they try to treat their guests like they are one of their own.

“People come here and they become our friends, and become like family,” he said. “We listen to them talk about the joys of their life, and we get to help share in that a little bit. I like to think that the food is pretty darn good, too.”

Daniel said the omelets are “absolutely fantastic.” Lynda raved about the fresh spinach and Boursin omelet. The bacon jam omelet was Daniel’s favorite.

“At its heart it is just a cheddar cheese omelet, but then you fill it with a homemade bacon and caramelized onion jam,” he said. “It’s a little smokey, little sweet, has a little tang. It hits a lot of flavor profiles.”

When they look at the lunch and dinner menu, Daniel hears from customers the fried seafood is “second to none.”

“Every single week, I hear someone say this is better than what they get anywhere else,” Daniel said. “Those are definitely our key draws for people.”

See specials and photos at facebook.com/UnionDinerNH.

Union Diner, at 1331 Union Ave., is open from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m., Wednesday through Saturday, serving breakfast and lunch, and from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Sundays for breakfast only. The diner also offers dinner from 4 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. on Friday night.