Fair weather: Sunny with a high chance of fun

SANDWICH — There are two ways to gauge the size of the crowd attracted to the Sandwich Fair, held each Columbus Day weekend. The first is by ticket sales, but because children get in for free — and because the fair prides itself on being kid-friendly — that only accounts for a portion of those in attendance. That’s why Bryan Peaslee, president of the fair association, prefers a different method: how difficult it is to get from one point to another.

When it’s busy, and when something happens like a water line springs a leak, it can be difficult to get to the problem in a hurry. Last year, it was most expedient for him to leave the fairgrounds entirely, use the public roads to drive around, then re-enter somewhere closer to his ultimate destination — “I believe it was a record,” Peaslee said.

What will this year’s fair, held on Saturday, Sunday and Monday, Oct. 8-10, look like? It all depends on the weather, Peaslee said, and the forecast is great for all three days.

“We always want as many people as want to come,” Peaslee said.

One thing will be different this year. Peaslee’s father, Dan, died in March after serving as president of the fair association for 11 years. At the opening ceremonies on Saturday morning, a pavilion that Dan championed will be dedicated in his name.

Bryan, who grew up helping his father organize the truck pull event, was named to take over leadership of the organization. He isn’t doing it alone, though.

“The Sandwich Fair has been really fortunate to have good leadership over a long period of time,” Peaslee said. “We’ve always had local leadership and local boards that have the town of Sandwich and the Sandwich Fair Association at heart.”

The fair dates back to a cattle-trading event in 1886, and still has agriculture as a key part of its identity. The volunteer board that runs it includes Jim Schipmann, who has served since 2011; Robin West, 2003; Ray Elliott, 2002; and Sue Dail, 1999. Several have joined more recently, bringing their own areas of expertise to help keep the fair going.

There are bigger fairs in New England, and there are earlier fairs. But Sandwich continues to draw crowds — around 40,000, in a good year — which Peaslee said has to do with its spot on the calendar, and its spot on the planet.

“We’re in October, it’s not too hot, there’s amazing foliage, in the most beautiful part of the world — and, we’re kind of the grand finale” of the fair season, he said. The vendors and ride operators all get to pack up and go home afterward, “and they’re all in a really good mood.”

Fairgoers will get a chance to see all manner of livestock raised by local farms and hobbyists, as well as vegetables, canned goods and pies, artwork and crafts submitted for judging. They can see competitions of might, as horses, oxen and even lawnmowers are challenged to pull weighted sleds. Attendees can show off their own power, too, through the children’s pedal tractor pull on Saturday or Sunday, or at the skillet toss or keg toss, both happening Monday.

For many, Peaslee said, the highlight of the fair is the Grand Street Parade, in which hundreds of animals, vehicles and marching bands snake through the parade grounds and the town center. It’s “chaos” leading up to it, and a headache to organize, Peaslee said, but no one on the association board would dream of holding a fair without it. It steps off at 1 p.m. on Sunday.

“It’s spectacular,” Peaslee said.

A lesser-known gem — perhaps for the fairgoer who’s seen it all — is a helicopter ride. The whirlybird alights from a corner of the midway and provides a tour of the town and its autumnal splendor.

For those content with terra firma, Peaslee recommends the various exhibit halls, which contain thousands of hours of labor by local amateur crafters and gardeners, all of whom are motivated by a desire to show off their skill and maybe take home a colorful ribbon.

Overall, though, Peaslee urges visitors to tour the livestock barns and watch some handling demonstrations or competitions.

“Our livestock and agricultural end is phenomenal. That’s because of the people in this area that bring these things so that our patrons can enjoy. We say all the time, we are an agricultural fair, that’s where our heart is,” Peaslee said. “Go to the heart of it.”

Of course, wandering the fairgrounds is a sure way to work up an appetite, and many of the pathways will be lined with vendors happy to satisfy. An anonymous survey of association members revealed that each has their own yearly indulgence: bison cheesesteak subs, deep-fried Oreos, sausage subs with peppers and onion, or a plate full of french fries.

The fry guy

On Thursday, John Ryan was working with a team of people to help shim the outriggers to bring his “John’s Famous French Fries” trailer to level — an important step for someone that would be standing next to containers of bubbling fat all weekend.

Ryan, who grew up in Salisbury, Massachusetts, first came to the fair 43 years ago as a 12-year-old, working for his neighbor, Bertha Bowe, who had a French fry trailer. He has since become a full-time “and then some” fry guy, working 18 fairs each season. And Sandwich is the end of his year.

How does Ryan compete on fairgrounds, with ever-diversifying options for people to choose from? By not changing at all. He still provides the same product that Bertha taught him to make as a boy. The potatoes are fresh from a farm, are cut right before they are fried, and pulled right out of the deep fryer and handed to the customer. And, while the rest of the world has filled their fryers with oil, “We still use lard. We’ve been using lard since day one.”

What sets Sandwich apart from the other 17 that Ryan attends?

“The weather’s beautiful, it’s the last fair of the season for us, and the people are just awesome at this fair,” he said. “Everyone works together to make it a very unique fair. The Peaslees and everyone else, just a great crew of people.”