Mount Nancy and the Nancy Pond Trail

I stood at the western edge of Norcross Pond, where the outlet takes a long dive into the Pemigewasset Wilderness. I had a commanding view of Mount Bond, the Twin Range and, in the distance, Franconia Ridge. The mountains were framed in a backdrop of an azure sky.

It was a phenomenal day to be at this spot, where I have stood several times before and have never been disappointed. The serenity and beauty of Norcross and Nancy ponds, snuggled between three mountains — Nancy, Anderson, and Duck Pond — are astonishing and should not be missed by anyone willing to make the four-mile hike on the Nancy Pond Trail.

I was here with Doug, Karen, Ron, Guy, Dave, and Steve to climb Mount Nancy, a trailless peak, which is just under 4,000 feet at 3,926. Doug organized the trip in his quest to summit the 100 highest mountains in New England during the winter season. I have hiked the Nancy Pond Trail several times and it is one of the most spectacular trails in the White Mountains, complete with a 200-foot cascade, remnants of the Lucy lumber mill, a Forest Service wilderness research area, a virgin forest, two wilderness ponds, and an unmatched scenic view of the Pemigewasset Wilderness.

The trailhead is on the west side of Route 302 in Crawford Notch, about three miles north of the Sawyer River picnic site. The trail climbs gradually along old logging roads and footpaths and crosses several streams, reaching the base of Nancy cascade at 2.4 miles. The trail then begins a steep climb to the upper reaches of the cascade where you can look several hundred feet down into the crevice that contains the brook between steep ledges. After reaching the high plateau, the trail meanders through a virgin spruce forest, bogs, and wetland until it reaches Nancy Pond, the headwaters of Nancy Brook.

A short distance further, Norcross Pond springs into sight. Mount Anderson and Mount Nancy rise on either side of the pond and the spectacular views to the west await you.

An interesting feature of this trail is the Nancy Brook Research Natural Area which the trail enters at 1.6 miles. It encompasses 1,384 acres. The research area has been set aside by the U.S. Forest Service for the study of flora and fauna in a rare virgin forest. Of particular interest are the rare species of mountain aven, which grows on wet rocks along Nancy Cascades, the state-threatened sedge (Carex wiegandii) which grows in the acidic soil of Nancy Pond and the rare three-toed woodpecker found in old-growth stands of spruce.

Thirty-five years ago, I hiked the Nancy Pond Trail into Norcross Pond. I was accompanied by my son, Matthew (15), and daughter Meghan (11). This was their first backpacking trip and what an introduction to backpacking it was! It was mid-October and the mountains were covered with a blanket of multi-colored leaves. Frost was hanging in the air. Ice-coated rocks abounded in stream crossings. The edges of the ponds were beginning to freeze. Winter was close at hand and Old Man Winter had a surprise waiting for us.

When we reached Norcross Pond, we found a campsite, pitched our tent, and settled down for the evening. After burrowing into our sleeping bags, we began to hear the eerie sound of snow falling on the roof of the tent. We were not prepared for winter conditions, and when we looked out the tent flap, we saw a wall of white. It was a restless night, not knowing what the morning would bring. When daylight broke, we were greeted with a foot of snow on the ground and it was still coming down. We needed to get off the mountain quickly before we became stranded in the accumulating snowfall. We plowed through the heavy wet snow, making our way back to the trailhead where our car was parked. We were soaked to the skin, lucky to have escaped the snow falling at higher elevations. Each time I return to the Nancy Pond Trail, I think of the events 35 years ago. When thinking back at that fiasco, I am always astonished that my children still want to hike with me.

Nancy Pond, Brook, Cascades, and Mountain were all named for Nancy Barton, a young servant girl who worked for Col. Joseph Whipple at his Jefferson estate. While working there, she fell in love with Jim Swindell. When Col. Whipple discovered the romance, he greatly disapproved and ran Mr. Swindell off of his estate, sending him to Portsmouth. Nancy was distraught over the loss of her lover, and she fled from Whipple’s estate, attempting to reunite with Jim. She began her journey in earnest on a cold December day in 1778. She amazingly made it as far as the brook in Crawford Notch that bears her name. She was later found frozen in a sitting position, her walking cane still in hand. It’s said that Jim Swindell, after learning of Nancy’s death, became hysterical and was committed to an asylum where he died several years later. (Place Names of the White Mountains, Robert and Mary Julyan, University Press of New England, 1993).

Doug’s Mount Nancy expedition began the trek along a well-marked trail, some wearing trail crampons, others snowshoes. After three stream crossings, we reached the re-route of the original trail which was destroyed by Hurricane Irene in 2011. The new route climbs the side of an old landslide, eventually bringing us to the base of the cascades which donned a layer of ice, undercut by surging water.

After spending considerable time gawking at the frozen waterfall, we began the toughest part of the climb, breaking trail through two feet of snow that was encrusted with a thick layer of ice. The trail climbed steeply by switchbacks and then traversed the ridge with views of Stairs and Resolution mountains.

Having successfully made it through the most difficult section of the trail, we were rewarded with a virgin spruce forest, laced with small streams that hadn’t frozen over. Our group expeditiously maneuvered over and around these pesky water courses until we finally found Nancy Pond, named for the woman who, in 1778, died four miles downsteam, trying to reunite with her lover. Further on, we came to Norcross Pond and hiked across the frozen water, reaching the remarkable viewpoint to find respite and food, while making plans for the summit hike to Mount Nancy.

Karen opted to stay behind while the rest of us began bushwhacking along the west side of Mount Nancy, following an unmaintained path. We soon reached a slide with fine views of the Pemi Wilderness and Mount Hancock, with Mounts Flume and Liberty barely visible on the horizon. We then climbed steeply and, a quarter-mile from the summit, Dave and I decided to turn back. I was concerned about leaving Karen alone waiting for our return. Dave and I quickly descended to Norcross Pond where we found Karen contentedly singing a Grateful Dead song. (I guess I didn’t need to worry about Karen being left alone). The rest of the group pushed forward to make the summit, taking in fine views to the north and east: Giant Stairs Mountain, Mount Resolution, and the Carter Range.

With the afternoon fading, we regrouped while descending along the Nancy Pond Trail and returned to the trailhead just as darkness was settling in. Some of us used headlamps to light the way, while others followed the trail with only a dim moon reflecting off the snow.

A winter climb of the Nancy Pond Trail offers a unique, rewarding, but challenging experience. Climbing to the summit of Nancy should only be attempted by well-conditioned and experienced hikers. The unmarked path can be confusing in places and, as some of us know, can lead in the wrong direction. You can always wait until spring when the cascades are blasting down the 200-foot cliff, swollen by melting snow cover, and the wilderness ponds are coming alive with new life, but be prepared for changes in the weather. Don’t make the same mistake I did earlier in my hiking life. In addition, be sure to be on guard for any shadows lurking along the trail. It’s said that Nancy Barton haunts the area, still looking for her lost love.

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For questions or comments, contact Gordon at forestpd@metrocast.net.