Viaud hits 'grand slam' with first wine dinner at Lake Estate, featuring vintages from Kendall-Jackson

TILTON — Randy Ullom, recently-named winery ambassador for Kendall-Jackson Wines, led guests of a recent wine dinner at the Lake Estate on Winnisquam on a culinary journey through the cuisine of Chef Chris Viaud, paired with curated wine from Kendall-Jackson vineyard properties around the world.

Santa Rose, California-based Kendall-Jackson, a family-owned winery, was started in 1982. Known for the No. 1 selling chardonnay nationwide, the vineyards produce many varietals, on full display at the dinner.

“We basically have a wine for everyone,” Ullom said by the fire in the bar before dinner.

This was the first of what the management team at the Lake Estate plans as many such dinners. The Jan. 21 event was part of the statewide celebration of New Hampshire Wine Week, put on by NH Liquor & Wine Outlet.

After being served a glass of brut sparkling wine, more than 50 guests seated themselves around tables in the Estate Ballroom for a welcoming address from Ed Rocco, general manager.

Ullom, along with Viaud and his team — including Chef de Cuisine Aaron Millinghaus and Banquet Chef Travis Greene — described the wine and the food pairings for each of five courses. Many ingredients for the dishes were sourced from farms throughout the Granite State.

Although Ullom professed he was loving his visit to New Hampshire, “it’s really not about you, it’s about the wines tonight,” he said.

The first course, hibiscus and coriander cured tuna, was accompanied by the 2023 Vintners Reserve rosé, aged five to six years according to Ullom, from pinot grapes.

The next selection was the 2022 Jackson Estate chardonnay, from the Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara County, with a creamy flavor.

Millinghaus introduced the second course, a “Peking” quail plate with flavors of pear, thyme, smoked parsnip, and hazelnut.

Next served were glasses of 2022 Dakel pinot noir, a medium-bodied Chilean wine, to accompany the third course of hand-cut pappardelle.

A brief respite between courses allowed guests to take in the architecture of the ballroom, designed, like the whole estate, by Samyn-D’Elia Architects of Holderness. The high-ceilinged ballroom features lots and lots of exposed wooden beams. Architect Clay Hayles described it as “a love letter to New Hampshire.”

A fourth course of five-spice duck breast was paired with the 2021 Hawkeye Mountain cabernet sauvignon, a wine with an earthy aroma and deep body. The hue of the red wine was so dark, it matched the huckleberry and tarragon sauce served with the dish.

“A vineyard that has a great view will make a spectacular wine,” Ullom said of Sonoma County’s Alexander Valley, facing the Mayacamas Mountains.

Before the final course, Ullom invited the crowd to visit Napa Valley, and experience a true vineyard-to-glass experience.

“Kick the dirt, kick the vine, taste the wine.”

A dessert of honey pavlova was served with the 2022 Grand Reserve Late Harvest orange muscat.

“A great way to finish an evening of fine wine and fine food,” Ullom said.

Ullom had nothing but praise for Viaud’s menu, describing the experience as in the top percentile of dinners he’s attended, and a “grand slam” of quality. “You did a rockstar job,” he told the chef.

His favorite course? Ullom wouldn’t say, likening choosing among them to picking a favorite child. He did hedge that he enjoyed the dishes paired with red wines a lot.

Local farm partners for the meal include Brookford Farm in Canterbury, Dunks Mushrooms in Brentwood, Hall Apiaries in Plainfield, North Country Smokehouse in Claremont, Orchard Hill Breadworks in Alstead, Robie Farm in Piermont, Vernon Family Farm in Newfields, Baer’s Beans and Maine Grains in Maine, Little Leaf Farms and Wards Berry Farm in Massachusetts, and Champlain Orchards in Vermont.

The upcoming events calendar at the estate features more chances to sample wine, including at the Grand Wine Tasting, 4-6 p.m. on Saturday, Feb. 7, in the Estate Ballroom, featuring over 75 types of wine.

There's also a wine dinner featuring Duckhorn Vineyards slated for 6 p.m. on Saturday, Feb. 28, with five courses of locally-sourced ingredients.

The resort also offers a special Valentine’s Day menu, appetizer and beverage specials at the bar, and seasonal spa treatments with limited availability.

For all the details, visit thelakeestatenh.com.